Boudédiète Excursion: Pirogue to the Open Sea and a Picnic on a Wild Guinea-Bissau Beach

The excursion at a glance

Format

Full day, by 4x4 then by pirogue, with a picnic on a wild Guinea-Bissau beach

Departure

In the morning from Le Papayer Ecolodge, with a stop at the Cap Skirring market to buy shrimp (for grilling)

Track

After Kabrousse, 8 km of badly damaged track through the rice fields: a 4x4 is essential

Pirogue

Boarding at Boudédiète, then down the bolong to its mouth, towards the open sea

Picnic

Mangrove oysters, spiny lobsters, crabs, shrimp and fish grilled over a wood fire (depending on the day's catch), and bounouk

Price

Variable, on quotation: a little-known excursion

What to bring

Passport required: Boudédiète is controlled by the army

Reserved for our guests

For guests staying at Le Papayer Ecolodge

Like all our excursions in Casamance, this one is reserved for our guests, that is, people staying at Le Papayer Ecolodge: we do not organise excursions for outside visitors. To prepare the day, ask for a call back or request your quote online.

The route: from Cap Skirring to the Guinea-Bissau beach

The day starts in the morning, by 4x4 from Le Papayer Ecolodge. We first stop at the Cap Skirring market to buy shrimp, which will be grilled at the picnic. We then drive through the village of Kabrousse and leave the tarmac: a track of about 8 kilometres, completely broken up, crosses the rice fields of Kabrousse. A 4x4 is essential.

The track leads to Boudédiète, on the border with Guinea-Bissau, where we board a pirogue. From here, we follow the great wild bolong of Boudédiète to its mouth, where it opens onto the open sea. The picnic is prepared on a wild Guinea-Bissau beach, at the water's edge, at the exit of the bolong.

For a very different day, in the mangrove and the bolongs, with fishing and a picnic beside a bolong, see our Essaout excursion.

Indicative map: the track and the pirogue crossing are not shown, and the route is schematic.

What you discover during the day

A day of adventure, between track, bolong, open sea and a wild beach. Here are the highlights:

• Shrimp from the market A stop in Cap Skirring to buy the shrimp for the picnic.
• The Kabrousse track Eight badly damaged kilometres through the rice fields, by 4x4.
• Down the bolong By pirogue, from Boudédiète to the mouth, towards the open sea.
• The wild beach A Guinea-Bissau beach, far from everything, for the picnic.
• Bounouk Palm wine, tasted just after the harvest.

The Kabrousse track and Boudédiète, a border village

After the stop at the Cap Skirring market and the drive through the village of Kabrousse, we leave the tarmac. The track runs for about 8 kilometres through the rice fields of Kabrousse: it is completely broken up, and a 4x4 is essential. The landscape is worth the detour, with rice fields, palm trees and Jola villages.

The track leads to Boudédiète, a small village of fishermen and rice farmers in Lower Casamance, set on a plateau surrounded by mangrove, on the border with Guinea-Bissau. It has about 400 inhabitants and is a crossing point to the neighbouring islands.

Because Boudédiète is closely controlled by the army, a passport is required for the whole day: the checkpoint registers everyone who comes to the village. Remember to bring it with you.

The pirogue: from the bolong to the open sea

At Boudédiète, we board a pirogue. To reach the Guinea-Bissau beach, we take the wild Boudédiète bolong: we go down it to its mouth, where its waters meet the open sea, and the beach stretches along the bank, at the exit of the bolong.

There is no fishing during the crossing: fishing is done from the beach. The sea can be rough at the exit of the bolong, and the crossing depends on the conditions of the day. To understand this environment of bolongs and mangrove, read our feature on the mangrove and bolongs of Casamance.

The picnic on a wild Guinea-Bissau beach

The picnic takes place on a wild Guinea-Bissau beach, instead of the edge of the mangrove in Casamance. While the meal is being prepared over the wood fire, there is time to swim, walk along the beach or go surf casting, with the line cast from the shore.

The menu honours the sea: grilled mangrove oysters, spiny lobsters, crabs, shrimp and fish grilled over a wood fire, depending on the day's catch. The shrimp bought that morning at the Cap Skirring market also go over the fire.

You also taste bounouk, the Jola name for palm wine, which the harvesters have just collected. It is drunk fresh and light, or more fermented, and is traditionally shared from a calabash in a very friendly atmosphere. After the meal comes time to rest, nap, swim or go surf casting, before the return by pirogue to Boudédiète, then by 4x4 to the lodge.

A typical day at Boudédiète

Times are indicative: they adjust to your pace, the tides, the state of the sea and the condition of the track.

1. Departure: in the morning, by 4x4 from Le Papayer Ecolodge.
2. Market: stop in Cap Skirring to buy shrimp.
3. Track: through Kabrousse, then 8 km of track in the rice fields to Boudédiète.
4. Checkpoint: passing through the Boudédiète checkpoint, passport in hand.
5. Pirogue: down the bolong to its mouth, towards the open sea.
6. Picnic: mangrove oysters, spiny lobsters, crabs, shrimp and fish grilled over a wood fire (depending on the day's catch), bounouk; swimming, walking and surf casting on the beach.
7. Rest: nap, swimming and surf casting from the beach.
8. Return: by pirogue to Boudédiète, then by 4x4 to the lodge.

Practical tips for your excursion

• A passport is required: Boudédiète is closely controlled by the army, and the checkpoint registers everyone who comes to the village. A photocopy is not enough.
• The picnic takes place in Guinea-Bissau: ask us, before booking, about the formalities to plan for.
• The sea can be rough at the mouth of the bolong: the crossing depends on the conditions of the day, and the programme can be adapted.
• A 4x4 is essential for the 8 km track, which is completely broken up.
• Bring a hat, sunscreen, water, swimwear and a towel: the beach is wild, with no shade and no shops.
• Wear light clothing and shoes that can get wet.
• Surf casting is done from the beach, and fishing is never guaranteed: it is a pleasure, not a promise of a catch.
• Bounouk is mildly alcoholic, especially as it ferments: enjoy it in moderation.
• A long excursion, and a rough one because of the track: it is not suitable for people who cope badly with difficult roads.

Frequently asked questions about the Boudédiète excursion

What is the Boudédiète excursion?

It is a little-known day that almost nobody offers: a 4x4 track to Boudédiète, a pirogue that goes down the bolong towards the open sea, then a picnic of mangrove oysters, spiny lobsters, crabs, shrimp and grilled fish, with bounouk, on a wild Guinea-Bissau beach.

How do you get to Boudédiète?

By 4x4 from Le Papayer Ecolodge, with a stop at the Cap Skirring market, then through the village of Kabrousse and 8 km of track in the rice fields to Boudédiète, where you board a pirogue.

Why is a 4x4 essential?

Because the 8 km track after Kabrousse, through the rice fields, is completely broken up.

Why is a passport required?

Boudédiète is on the border with Guinea-Bissau and is closely controlled by the army: the checkpoint registers everyone who comes to the village. A photocopy is not enough.

Are there formalities for the Guinea-Bissau beach?

The picnic takes place on a beach in Guinea-Bissau. Ask us, before booking, about the formalities to plan for: we tell you about them when we put the day together.

What do you eat at the picnic?

Grilled mangrove oysters, spiny lobsters, crabs, shrimp and fish grilled over a wood fire, depending on the day's catch, with bounouk. The shrimp are bought that morning at the Cap Skirring market.

What is bounouk?

It is the Jola name for palm wine, harvested from palm trees by tappers. It is drunk fresh or fermented, and is traditionally shared from a calabash.

Can you fish?

Not during the pirogue crossing, but you can go surf casting from the Guinea-Bissau beach. Fishing is never guaranteed.

Can the sea be rough?

Yes, the sea can be choppy at the mouth of the bolong. The crossing to the open sea depends on the conditions of the day, and the programme can be adapted.

What is the price of the excursion?

There is no fixed price: the excursion is little known and it is sometimes hard to find a pirogue, so the price varies. To find out the price for your day, request your quote online or ask for a call back.

How is it different from the Essaout excursion?

Both excursions start from Boudédiète. At Essaout, we fish in the bolongs and have the picnic beside a bolong, in the mangrove. Here, we go down the bolong to its mouth and the open sea, for a picnic on a wild Guinea-Bissau beach, with spiny lobsters and crabs.

Is the excursion open to people not staying at the lodge?

No. All our excursions in Casamance are reserved for guests staying at Le Papayer Ecolodge: we do not organise excursions for outside visitors.

Going further: other excursions and features

See all our excursions in Casamance